I’m often asked about shoes and find many of us don’t know the different types of shoes by name; making it difficult to identify them when shopping or coordinating an outfit. Now a day, it’s not always easy to label shoes because so many styles have been blended together; confusing us with hybrids.
Still, most shoes are distinct enough to recognize without too much guessing involved. Hopefully, this article will take the guesswork out of footwear by giving you a better understanding of the various shoe styles and their classifications.
Oxfords: The dressiest of dress shoes, the oxford originated in England, and is also known as the Balmoral or Bal. Regardless of what it’s called, this shoe has characteristics that make it unique to other shoes and easily identifiable. It has closed lacing, a non-rubber sole, a low heel, is fairly plain in style, and traditionally has always been constructed of leather; however, oxfords can now be found in synthetics materials, as well. The oxford is a very refined shoe, with a thin leather sole and sleek, sophisticated styling that never goes above the ankle. Black and brown are the colors most commonly worn, but this shoe can also be found in other colors and shades – something for everyone. Formal oxfords worn to formal affairs are either black or white and are very shiny leather. The oxford is the perfect suit shoe, whether it’s worn at the office, a wedding, or any social event requiring a suit.
Bluchers: Basically, this shoe is a less formal oxford. It can be identified by its open laces, which are laced outside the shoe, and its thicker sole. It can be dressy, but also very casual, and comes in countless styles, colors, and materials. Depending on the shoe, bluchers can be worn with a suit if dressy enough, but are more appropriate with sport jackets and slacks, or even chinos and jeans when casual. Style variations include wing tip, cap toe, brogue, spectator, saddle shoes, split toe, and any laced up shoe that is not athletic. Derby is another name for bluchers.
Wing Tips are very similar in appearance to the cap toe except for the distinctive W shaped toe cap that extends to both sides. The perforations or decorative holes punched into the leather, along with the serrated edges, give the wing tip another name: Full Brogue. The brogue originated in Ireland and Scotland, where the perforations served as a functional part of the shoe by allowing water to seep out when the wearer walked in wet bogs.
Cap Toes have an additional piece or band of leather over the toe area, and is the most popular style of bluchers worn. A cap toe with decorative perforations is known as a Semi-Brogue or Half-Brogue.
Spectators are a vintage shoe dating back to the Swing Era of the 1920s and 30s. They come in two basic styles: cap toe and wing tip, and usually have borguing – a decorative perforation along the stitching or on the toe with a serrated edge. Another name for the flamboyant spectator is Co-repondent Brogue. The pieces of leather in between the toe and the heel are usually white, but can be found in various colors. This shoe, although two tone, is considered a solid colored shoe, and is designated the same color as the leather between the toes and heel. The samples are white, wing tip spectators and should be worn with any outfit commanding an all-white shoe. Once a very popular shoe; today it’s considered an eccentric choice of footwear. Looks best on the swing dance floor, and with outfits other brogues are worn with.
Saddle Shoes, Charlie Brown’s shoe of choice, have the traditional design of a blucher, with the addition of a saddle or piece of leather across the top of the instep, covering the laces and down both sides. This shoe typically has a piece of leather in the back over the heel area, as well. Saddles work with jeans, khakis and chinos, or other business casual outfits.
Split Toes are appropriately named because they look like the shoe is split in half at the toe. The distinguishable split or seam goes up the center of the shoe to the throat, and can either be partial or full depending on the style. This shoe is an acceptable choice to wear with suits; however, it is still not as dressy as an oxford.
Loafers are easy to identify: they have no laces or buckles of any kind. Obviously, the absence of laces make all loafers “slip-ons’. Loafers resemble moccasins on top, but have a firm sole and low, wide heel. The traditional tassels and penny slot no longer define the loafer, yet many designs still incorporate them. They span the spectrum from casual to dressy; yet even the dressiest of loafers are only appropriate with suits worn to less formal occasions. Depending on the loafer, anything from jeans to dress slacks work well, and they add a smart sense of style to most outfits. Traditionally, loafers have been made of leather; however, today’s loafers can be found constructed of various materials. Loafers are typically a very comfortable shoe that add diversity to any wardrobe.
Monk Straps resemble loafers because they are slip-ons, yet differ with the distinguishable strap and functional metal buckle that adorn the top of the shoe. Considered a dress shoe, the monk strap works well with dressy jeans, slacks, business casual and other semi-dress outfits.
Moccasins are in the loafer class because they are slip-ons, and are always considered casual due to their slipper like style and comfort. Uppers are typically made of suede or leather, and usually include a lace that goes around the shoe and ties in the front. Mocs come with or without soles. Soles are usually made of rubber, which makes them very flexible and easy on the feet. The soles are either solid, covering the entire bottom of the shoe, or rubber spikes, which add style and comfort to every step. If the moccasin has a heel, it’s always very low. Mocs look great with jeans and even shorts.
Driving shoes resemble moccasins because of their casual style. Another very comfortable shoe, the driving shoe, also known as the Driving Moc, usually has a flexible combination leather and rubber sole. Driving shoes look good with jeans and casual pants.
There’s no one shoe that can be worn with every outfit… nor would any of us want that, I’m sure. Even if you’re not a shoe whore, having at least one pair of shoes for every level of dress, in both black and brown, is a smart idea. An assortment of shoes adds versatility to your wardrobe; enabling you to maximize your closet. The same outfit can be transformed from casual to dress by changing your shoes. Shoes are fun and a favorite part of many men’s wardrobe. Now that you know the names and types of today’s shoes, check out your collection and add whatever’s missing!
